To Absinthe friends - New Orleans June 2012

Ah, New Orleans. Hot, sweaty, sexy and spicy. It's one of my favorite cities in the US but it's very atypical of America, especially in the Quarter. America puts on a bright shiny facade and you go behind that and see all the gritty reality. In the Quarter the homes all have plain facades but inside they are filled with beautiful courtyards, cool fountains, high ceilings and charm out the wazoo. It's also a very walkable city, compact but with distinct areas. And how can you help but like the streetcars! I mean, come on! Tennessee Williams! And I wanted to try some absinthe. It's making a comeback now that it's not made with wormwood and I thought surely New Orleans would be the place to try it.

Elizabeth's family on her mother's side are an amazing brood of Greek stock. Artistic but with business acumen. All of them beautiful. I am in awe of them but I come from a small family. Our trip was planned around purchasing a painting by Elizabeth's cousin, Anastasia Pelias. Well that and just to go to New Orleans. Have I mentioned I love the place? So, we packed up and left the kids and the dog and off we went!

A note about packing here. For such ardent travelers we suck at packing. I overpack some things and under pack others. And then there's the shoes! So for 2 of us for 4 nights we had one checked bag and two carry-ons plus a backpack and another large carryon. We usually pack more for "vacations" versus "travel". This was definitely vacation. Someday we'll figure it out.

Soniat House main entrance side

Soniat House "our side"

The place Elizabeth found for us to stay was amazing. She loves research and had checked everything out. This was in the Quarter, just around the corner from Brad and Angelina's place. It was the Soniat House. Built in the 1830's, the hotel is actually three townhouses built by planter Joseph Soniat and his son. The hotel came into being 20 years ago and has been winning awards ever since. The houses are across the street from each other. Our room was across the street from registration and the self service bar. (More about that in a bit) You use a key to enter a short hallway that leads to the courtyard. We were on the second floor and our room was terrific. There was a bathroom, complete with French water faucets, a sitting room and then a step up to the bedroom with beautiful antique furnishings and high ceilings. 

The service is what really makes the place. The concierges are knowledgeable and get to know you if you take the time to talk to them. There's an honor bar in a nice room next to reception, well stocked and they'll get you anything you want if they don't have it. You just mix your cocktail, or grab your beer or wine, and fill out a little form. That first night we got to talking to Bill, the concierge on duty, and he was a wonderful conversationalist. For PC folks he reminded me a lot of Dr. Coker. Soft spoken, intelligent, with a love of the wicked history of the area. He told us that if there was something missing from the bar to let him know and they'd order it for us. They had Hendricks gin so I was all set. :-) 

We were looking for a good po boy within walking distance that first night and after sizing us up Bill suggested a place around the corner that locals use. The place was packed and we were clearly the only tourists in the place aside from one other couple but the food was awesome. 

Our breakfast remnants. The warming stone is marked "Soniat House".

The next day we had breakfast in our room. Fantastic coffee and biscuits in a basket with a warming stone impressed with "Soniat House". You just don't get that at the big chain hotels.


Staci (Anastasia) came and picked us up and we were off for a day of New Orleans awesomeness. We first went to her gallery. She does these amazingly beautiful large scale paintings filled with really deep colors. I'm probably describing that all wrong but I am with art like I am with wine. I may not know the technical details but I know what I like. And I like these paintings very much. We spent quite a bit of time going through the paintings and finally decided on one. It's one of her older pieces but it really spoke to us and it had been a favorite of her father. We completed our business and then headed off to lunch. 

Our new painting!

Another of Staci's works. This was our favorite I think.

Eating where the locals do is just so much better. We went to a local place called Crabby Jack's and had another amazing shrimp po boy. This was a favorite place of Staci's dad, Harry Pelias. He was a wonderful man I only met once at a family reunion years ago. He and I hit it off with our mutual love of history and genealogy and I remember he took me to his office, which is now Stacie's gallery, and gave me several books I still cherish today. Greek history and cookbooks. I could easily imagine him holding court at Crabby Jack's with a root beer and po boy.

Elizabeth, Stasi and her boyfriend

After lunch we got to do something most folks don't get to do. Staci took us to a warehouse where Mardi Gras floats are created, stored and repaired. It was an incredible place. Hot, with the heat of a New Orleans summer, and huge it was filled with these amazing creations. Many are decidedly politically incorrect but funny as hell. I think there's a common misconception that there is one Mardi Gras parade but in reality there are many. Some are more family friendly than others and it shows in the floats. Many of the bodies of the floats have been around for decades, some have been around so long they are made using Civil War era gun carriage wheels. The krewes hire firms like this one to create and maintain their floats. 

Me and Elvis

Next we headed to The Columns. This is a famous hotel and bar on St. Charles Avenue. Pretty Baby was filmed here. The bar is a beautiful Victorian looking thing. We met Natalia, Staci's sister, there for a few drinks. Being in New Orleans I had to have a Sazerac and it did not disappoint. I followed that up with a Pimm's Cup which is the perfect drink on a hot afternoon. 

Me and Elizabeth

Elizabeth made a friend

I made a friend too

The Columns

We had dinner reservations that night at Gautreau's. The Soniat House has a connection to Gautreau's and can get it's guests reservations. The restaurant is located in a neighborhood with little parking so it worked out well that we were taking a cab. It's a very nondescript building that used to be a pharmacy and doesn't even have a sign in an Uptown neighborhood and this was truly one of our most favorite meals/evenings ever. To start with they have incredible old school cocktails. I had another Sazerac and Elizabeth went with the French 75 made with brandy. The service was fantastic and the atmosphere was really cool. To our left were a couple of older ladies in beautiful suits. The server told us, when we inquired, that they were regulars. They had flowers on their table, no one else did. It turns out they always requested them and as regulars the restaurant always obliged though no one else gets them. To our right was a larger party that included Bryan Batt, the actor who plays Salvatore on Mad Men. He was there with his boyfriend and family and looked sharp in green pants and white shirt. I commented to the server, who said he preferred my outfit, thereby ensuring a bigger tip. We had fabulous food and just the right amount of attention and just to seal the deal the servers brought Elizabeth the flowers from the ladies' table. I can't recommend Gautreau's enough, but do make a reservation.

The next day we made the pilgrimage to Cafe du Monde for coffee and beignets. That's always a highlight of a New Orleans trip. We walked there from the hotel, passing Central Grocery on the way. Central is the birthplace of the muffaletta. But back to Cafe du Monde, if you've never been it's just across the street from Jackson Square and you just find yourself a seat. It may take a few minutes and we always see newbies looking bewildered as they try to figure this out. Just keep your eyes open for someone about to leave and then grab their table. It'll be bussed quickly and a server will be over. Don't bother looking at the menu, just get a cafe au lait and and order of beignets. They come three to an order. Then just enjoy people watching until your order comes and your eyes roll back in your head. Keep in mind it's open 24 hours a day every day except Christmas and the occasional hurricane. 

For lunch we took a cab to Commander's Palace, the famous old (1880) restaurant. They have 25 cent martinis at lunch. Yes, that's right, 25 cents. So for a $1.50 we got smashed. Commander's is a lovely old place. If you go, I recommend going for lunch. It's cheaper, the food's just as good, and did I mention the 25 cent martinis? 

After our 3 martini lunch. Elizabeth got a chef's hat!

Afterwards we strolled through the Lafayette cemetery across the street. Another must do for any New Orleans trip. Because of the high water table all burials are in above ground crypts. You may be aware of that. But what you may not know is that the graveyards are free for you to walk through. The older ones are especially interesting. And if you do it after having 3 or 4 martinis it's all the better. 

Make sure to stroll through at least one cemetery on your visit.

We then went to visit Elizabeth's Aunt Magda. She lives in the old family home and is much the matriarch. She and Harry were quite the couple and she is still full of life. We were walking to her house and called to make sure she was home. She insisted on coming to pick us up. At her house there's only parking on the street and there's a hand lettered sign designating her parking place. It's always honored. She's that kind of lady and it's that kind of neighborhood. We had a lovely visit and then walked to the streetcar line. We took the streetcar back towards our hotel but hopped off and walked down

Magda's parking spot

Royal Street doing some antique window shopping along the way. It was a hot day so we stopped by Meltdown Popsicles for some gourmet popsicles. They make them daily out of fresh ingredients and they are perfect for a hot summer day.

For our last night we walked around the Quarter and just tried a local restaurant whose name escapes me. I just remember it was OK, nothing memorable. But then we walked down Bourbon Street. We popped in a few shops the funnest of which was a voodoo shop where we bought a crystal orb to capture bad spirits. It's New Orleans, you have to go in the voodoo shop! Our last stop was Pat O'Briens for a hurricane. Pat's is the home of the hurricane, invented during WW II.  It's a bit touristy but still fun. In fact, their motto is "Have Fun" and you will, especially after a hurricane or two! It's not exactly a finely crafted cocktail but it is strong and does the job intended.

We finally hit a liquor store looking for some absinthe. We hadn't found it served in any of the places we'd been. They had a decent selection but for some reason we just couldn't bring ourselves to buy any. Maybe we were just saving something for the next trip, because New Orleans, we will be back!